Monday, 21 April 2014

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Vintage Indian Jewelry Biography

Source (google.com.pk)
Jewels were always part of human culture. Even from the times when humans first started using clothes and tools some 100.000 years ago, jewels were produced from any kind of materials that were available - stones, animal skins, feathers, plants, bones, shells, wood, and natural made semi-precious materials such as obsidian. As the time went on, advancing technology enabled artisans to start taming metals and precious gems into works of art that influenced entire cultures and many modern jewelry styles. However, even with all advancements of metallurgy and gem processing, the purpose of wearing jewelry always remained the same - they enabled wearer to express himself non-verbally, showcase wealth, rank, political and religious affiliation or affections toward someone. This enabled jewelry to become timeless and a target for constant development and refinement.

Development of early jewelry can be roughly divided across three ancient civilizations - Egypt, India and China. Egypt and Mesopotamia set standards in metallurgy, gem collecting, and glass manufacture. Their several thousand year long tradition of jewelry production laid a solid foundation for all European civilizations that came after them, and their unique style affected fashion trends even four thousand years later.

India however managed to develop such a connection to jewelry that it became integral part of their daily life and religion. Since they were the first who managed to conquer the art of gold gathering and processing, they develop art of jewel making much earlier than anyone in their environment. This made them one of the most sought destinations for trade, which eventually became driving force for the incredible expansion of European civilization during the Age of Discovery. On the far side of the world, China managed to become driving force in developing of arts and their influence slowly spread their unique style across entire Asia. Chinese style that is focused on scenes of nature, animals and dragons is today still in high popularity, and continues to be developed with each passing year.

After the fall of Ancient Egypt and Roman Empire, Europe became driving force of jewelry innovation. However, it took a long time until they managed to claim that position. After almost thousand years of isolation, famine, plagues and wars, Western Europe finally came into contact with distant civilizations during Crusades which enabled flow of new knowledge an ideas that enabled birth of Renaissance. As transfer of wealth from nobility, royalty and church continued to flow to middle classes during Renaissance, Age of Discovery and Industrial Revolution, jewelry designs and fashion trends changed dramatically. During those times world saw the appearance and disappearance of many styles, some new and original and some based on older designs found in the ruins of long gone civilizations (mostly Egyptian, which became one of the inspirations of Romanticism and Art Deco).

After more than 100.000 years of use of decorative items, and more than 6 thousand years of metallurgy and gem processing, we can surely say that jewels will forever remain integral part of humanity and our entire civilization.

History of Indian jewellery is as old as the history of the country itself. Around 5000 years ago, the desire to adorn
themselves aroused in people, leading to the origin of jewellery. Since then, Indian women and jewellery have
gone hand in hand. There cannot be a woman in India, who does not adore herself with minimum jewellery. In
fact, jewellery is considered as security and prestige of women in the country. The attraction for jewellery has
been great in India that it is no more a craft than an art.

Indian jewellery is unique in its design and workmanship. In all kinds of traditional dance forms, jewellery has
been a significant part. Be it Bharatnatyam, Kuchipudi or Kathak, all have given importance to jewellery in
presenting the artist. The sheer number of items forming the jewellery of an Indian woman is numerous, ranging
from earrings and necklaces to pieces for adorning the hair, hip, feet, and feet. Jewellery made with emeralds,
diamonds, pearls, rubies, sapphires and other precious and semi-precious stones have been in practice for long.

The range of jewellery in India varies from religious to purely aesthetic types. It is crafted not only for humans, but
also for the Gods, ceremonial elephants and horses. Royal class people have given patronage to the art of
jewellery since ancient times, when rajas and maharajas vied with each other to possess the most exquisite and
magnificent pieces. Regional differences can be observed in the making of jewellery, depending on the
differences in geography, people, culture, and their lifestyle.

While the designs in solid gold jewellery of Tamil Nadu and Kerala are inspired by nature, the Meenakari and
Kundan styles of jewellery making have been influenced by the Mughal dynasty. Then there is a huge range of
silver beads found all over India, especially in Rajasthan, Gujarat, Madhya Pradesh and Himachal Pradesh. Their
availability leads to the development of the bead jewellery, popular till date.

While Assamese jewellery is influenced by local flora and fauna, Manipuri jewellery-makers make use of items
like shells, animal claws, teeth and precious and semi-precious stones. These huge varieties of ornaments bear
testimony to the excellent skill of the jewellers and craftspeople of the country. Indian jewellery in Gold,
diamonds, silver, sterling silver, precious stones, copper and semi-precious stones is a rage all over the world. 

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